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Messages - Pete P.

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1
Sounds like a sticky control valve or a broken fork retracting spring.  Try lifting a light implement (like a back blade) then shut down.  Assuming the implement doesn't lower when the control lever is moved downward,  remove one or both of the inspection plates and carefully move the control valve by hand.  Be careful not to disengage it from the yoke or to pull it all the way out of the pump.  The valve should operate smootly and easily.  If the implement drops when you move the valve by hand and the valve wasn't hard to move then something's gone wrong with your linkage.  Just be careful not to stick your hand in the pump housing with the tractor running -- the PTO shaft runs through the control fork and through the pump.

Hope this helps,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.
 

2
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 9N no spark passed coil
« on: February 02, 2010, 05:04:58 PM »
Warren --

If the pump is moving and the relief valve is good, and there's no obvious place the oil is going to (like a cracked tube or housing) then it sounds like dropping the pump and (probably) rebuilding it is in order.  Zero pressure is odd though, usually one will have something even if it's only 50 psi. 

Good luck,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

3
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: timing the steering box
« on: January 26, 2010, 04:13:51 PM »
hughdawg --

It's been a while, but I believe when you rebuild the steering box all one does is (with drag links disconnected) move one sector arm all the way back and the other all the way forward.  Note when the sectors lose mesh with the steering shaft gear, then move them back in carefully so that the shaft gear catches the first tooth of each sector at same time. 

Hope this helps,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

4
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 9n alternator
« on: January 21, 2010, 08:17:10 PM »
Dennis --

You should be able to pull the alt. and bench test it at any decent parts house.  If faulty, sure you can replace it with a similar unit -- most of these conversions use Delco single wire units but you should match whatever you have.  That said, it might be wiring related.  Many 12v conversions are poorly done.

My personal view is that the trouble with alternators is that they're 12 volt.  (sorry, couldn't resist.)  My point is that a properly maintained 6v system is great.  Many 12v conversions were done to overcome some issue that isn't the fault of the original 6v system.  The faster cranking speed masks the real fault for a while but it doesn't actually fix anything.  Just beware of other troubles lurking "beneath the surface." 

Hope this helps,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.
 

5
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 9N no spark passed coil
« on: January 21, 2010, 08:08:58 PM »
Warren --

If you replace points, go with Blue Streak ventilated -- the cam block is still actual fibre which resists wear far better than the purple plastic stuff the Tisco (and other) points have.  Also, you might consider replacing the hold down screws if they're worn at all -- these screws have to be very tight to hold the gap.  One trick that seems to work ok is to leave a feeler gauge between the points when tightening the lower screw -- the screw turning against the stationary point plate tends to move the plate inward. 

Also, try 0.018", especially if your distributor is worn.  Essentially, you want the widest gap you can get and still have spark.  the extra gap compensates for worn bushings and cam lobes. 

Just my $ 0.02,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

6
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 9N no spark passed coil
« on: January 14, 2010, 02:04:00 PM »
Warren --

I'm a little fuzzy on where you metered to in the distributor -- you say from the brass concave coil primary screw to the "first point" with points open and you get a short.  Where is "first point?"  With points open you should get an open from the coil primary screw to ground (dist. chassis.)  You should get 0 ohms when points are closed.  If you have an analog meter and spin the dist. slowly you should see nice sharp response on the meter needle as the points open and close. 

You might have a defect that is shorting the coil primary circuit to ground -- could be the brass strap from the screw to the point strap, the condensor, a stray bit of wire, etc.   I'd remove all, clean, dress / replace points and carefully reassemble.  The fault is definitely in the dist. assuming the above is true with dist. on the bench.

Hope this helps,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

7
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 8n lift cover
« on: January 14, 2010, 01:54:17 PM »
If it worked properly & quietly and didn't leak then don't mess with it.  If you decide to drop the pump, clean the sump out but as above, don't dig into it if its doing what its supposed to.

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

8
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 9n or 2n?
« on: January 11, 2010, 05:33:42 PM »
Lonestar --

That's an excellent question; actually one I'm dying to know more about myself.

According to the more reputable SN sources, the first 2N was a 1942 with SN 9N99003.  Seems straightforward enough until you note that same sources say the last 9N was a 1943 with a SN of 9N105412  ???

I'd say you have one of the very last 1942 9Ns but I can't prove it like I'd like to be able to.  I'd love to know the real deal of whether Ford did a clean conversion from 9N to 2N in which case several SN guides are glaringly wrong.  Trouble is that few folks tend to be concerned with these details -- frustrating!!

Let me know if you discover anything,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

9
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 8n lift cover
« on: January 11, 2010, 05:24:50 PM »
kentstang66-- 

I'm much more familiar with the 9 & 2N but the 8N is similar -- the control linkages must be disconnected to remove the top cover from the rest of the tractor.  My guess is that these are the linkages you refer to.  There should be pins on either side of the pump -- pull the cotter keys & pins and away you go. 

Hope this helps,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

10
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: Help! 12 volt question!
« on: January 11, 2010, 05:14:45 PM »
Andy.45--

Need more info, especially what is attached schematically to either end of the resistor and what value (ohms) the resistor is.  My guess is that you've inadvertently grounded the other side of the resistor, but it's just a guess without knowing what's where.

Also, what model tractor?

Let us know,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

11
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 9N/2N Backfires
« on: December 28, 2009, 04:43:32 PM »
Burt --

Sorry I didn't realize you were without a settling bulb; I think you'll like having it -- they're great at trapping coarse dirt and water, and you can see the amount of contamination and dump it out as needed.  You'd be suprised how much snow finds its way into a fuel tank while plowing or being stored outside. 

Good luck & stay warm,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

12
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 2N weird compression
« on: November 23, 2009, 04:27:56 PM »
Burt --

OK, you're ahead of me.  Valves stick individually, it seems without a lot of rhyme or reason. 

I'd pull the head -- you can see if the gasket is faulty at that point.  If it is, good -- replace and reassemble.  If not -- do the valves.

Pete P.
Harborcreek,  Penna.

13
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: Buying a 9N - question
« on: November 23, 2009, 04:21:51 PM »
Artillery Vet --

Probably.  The 9N will only hold a position if the control is all the way up and PTO stopped.  Even then, if there is any leak the arms will lower. 

The old chain & rack system I mentioned basically works by lifting the implement to the desired position, moving the chain yoke to a specific slot along the rigid top link and then dropping the 3PH all the way down.  The chain will allow the implement to hang from the top link and the lower arms will carry no weight.  You can then run the PTO (if desired) without worrying about the lift arms.

On the other hand, if you only want to hold an implement like a spreader (no PTO,) you should be able to lift it to where you want it, put your draft control lever all the way up and disengage the PTO.  It should stay there at least for a while unless there's a defect in the hydraulic system.  We rake hay and pull wagons this way with our '40 9N.

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.
   

14
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 3 point hitch won't stay raised
« on: November 23, 2009, 04:15:01 PM »
Artillery Vet --

The 9N and 2N did not have voltage regulators as such.  They had only a cut out relay (which may be what you're referring to.)  The cutout is a round can looking thing that mounts on the front of the steering gearbox above the clutch compartment.  There is one wire from the one (and only) post on the generator and one wire to the battery.  The function of the cutout is to open the circuit any time the generator voltage is less than the battery voltage thereby preventing the battery from discharging through the generator when the engine is stopped or at idle.  It does not, however, regulate output voltage or current as a voltage regulator does. 

A voltage regulator has two or three relays, one of which is a cut out and is connected to the armature terminal of the generator, the others increase or decrease the voltage applied to the field of the generator -- more field current = more intense magentic field = more generator output.  Generators used with a regulator are of the shunt-wound type which have the afforementioned two terminals (A & F.) 

Sorry for the long answer but yes -- the cutout / regulator is your problem.  Either component is relatively inexpensive so I'd replace it vs. try to dress the points, re-seal the can, etc.

RE: serial numbers -- the engine SN is the only one.  There are a ton of design clues that can put you in the right age range but that's another discussion.

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.
 

15
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 9N/2N Backfires
« on: November 23, 2009, 04:05:25 PM »
Burt --

I'm a bit envious, still in the 50s here, no snow 'till end of week maybe.  Last year this time we had 30" or so (Penna. lakeshore.)  I'm sure that's nothing by your standards, but I love winter.  Anyhow, I digress...

I'm starting to wonder about fuel in your case.  For sure a good carb tuning and fuel flow inspection is in order. 

RE -- Marvel oil or the like -- stuck valves are a common occurrance on the flat head Fords, but usually only if one hasn't been run for a while (a year or so.)  Sometimes the trick works, sometimes not.  It will, however, foul the living daylights out of your plugs -- so be prepared to change them.  Oh, yea -- it smokes terrible too.   Personally, I'd do a compression test both hot and cold.  If you have a sticky or otherwise poor seating valve the compression test will tell you without the bad plugs, etc.  If you have one cylinder that's weak then you could try the Marvel oil -- if not then you know valve seating (or anything compression related) is not the issue.

One thing that I do recommend is Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant in the fuel.  (Other similar products work too.)  Flatheads don't have much of a water jacket in the head.  New fuels, especially higher octane blends, burn very rapidly.  Some have said that all the combustion is done in the first inch of piston travel.  I can't verify that, but the point is that these engines were designed to operate on distilled, leaded gasoline which burned much slower than the modern 89 octane.  Modern fuels will deposit all the heat in the upper portion of the cylinder where there isn't much cooling ability.  In extreme cases the head can warp from heat; even in normal use the engine is not operating smoothly.  The upper cylinder lube retards combustion rate and allows the fuel to burn over more of the stroke resulting in smoother operation and less heat in the head.  Also -- and to your point -- it tends to lend an oil coating to the valves which may inhibit sticking.   I run the stuff in all my flatheads and haven't done a valve job or head gasket in about six years now.  I have, however, gone one heat range up in spark plugs to prevent fouling.

Good luck,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.
   

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