Artilleryvet --

You didn't mention the model of your tractor, I'll assume 9 or 2 N, answer will be similar for 8N ... well we'll get to that.  Also, I'll assume that you lifted the spreader, then disengauged the PTO and left the draft control lever all the way up.

Assuming the above, it may sound obvious but the only way for the lift to lower is for oil to leave the cylinder.  There are several ways that it may do so internally, the most popular seems to be a leaky piston ring, leaky control valve and / or a relief that's stuck open.  I'm betting on the latter because you said the lift was okay 'till your friend loaded the spreader -- if the load hit the spreader hard it would have shock-loaded the hydraulic system.  If the relief popped open (which is its job) and for some reason didn't re-seat it would allow oil to leak from the cylinder back into the sump. 

Folks will tell you that you can pull the right side inspection plate and look for oil turbulance when the pump is running, but I can never see it.  Others say to put your hand in there and feel for oil squirting past the relief (again with pump running) but there's no way I'd put my hand in a running machine.  Best thing in my opinion is to drop the pump and replace the relief -- doesn't cost much and it may fix the problem.  If it doesn't, I'd next pull the top cover and replace the piston ring.  Use a neoprene O-ring vs. the original steel, and inspect the cylinder for any wear.  Replace the pistion and cylinder if you have to.  Upon reassembly pay close attention to the top cover seal because the high pressure oil travels to the cylinder via a tube along the side of the housing which connects to a passage in the top cover -- this will leak mercilessly if your gasket job is not up to the task and will re-create the very problem you're having now.

Hope this helps,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

Burt --

That wiring doesn't sound right at all.  The coil sits atop the distributor and cap on the front mount models (which yours should be.)  The only wires should be one from the resistor / switch to the top post of the coil to supply current, and the four spark plug wires plugging into the distributor cap. 

The coil is retained by a snap bail -- move it forward (towards radiator) and it will allow the coil to be lifted off.  Next, unsnap the two spring clips retaining the cap and remove it and the rotor.  Note the position of the rotor (makes reassembly much easier.)  Then remove the dist. by removing the two bolts -- they take a 1/2" wrench.  The dist. should come off the front of the engine with a little persuasion; use the coil bail as a handle if you want.  Once you get inside it's fairly simple but be picky -- make everything 100 % and take no shortcuts.  Ns are not known for being forgiving when it comes to spark. 

Once you open her up, make sure points are really clean, gapped to 0.015 - 0.018 in.  Make sure the concave headed screw that the spring contact on the coil touches is also shiny clean, and the copper strap between that screw and the breaker point plate is good.  Make sure everything else is good and clean, then lube the cam lobes sparingly. 

Upon reinstallation, rotate dist. so that rotor is where you had it when it was removed -- dist. tang drive will only go in one way but lining up to the approximate location helps.  make sure coil contact surfaces, cap and rotor surfaces are good and clean and put all back together.

Next is plug & wire time, but that's fairly straightforward.  If you need new wires, you'll have to make them of course -- use only copper core wire, not this suppression stuff all the wanna-be parts stores have.  Every radio and television in half a mile will hear your ignition system but it will work and will stay that way.  For plugs, I use Autolite 437.

Hope this helps,

Pete P.

I guess I'm a bit fuzzy on what you mean by the top and bottom sleeve.  It's been a while since I've done a PTO shaft on an N but most folks get the shaft with bearings already pressed on -- if you're doing the bearings yourself (on 9n and 2n anyway) you have to split the bearing retainer collar to get the inner race off the shaft. 

As far as the pump goes, if it worked ok before, just clean the outside and she'll work fine upon reinstallation. Opening up a working pump is asking for trouble.

Hope this helps,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

Bitter --

Sounds like you've got your answer on the starter -- it sounds pooped and rebuilding it is in order. You didn't say what model of tractor you're working on, but I'm a bit concerned with your comment that the "negative cable gets hot" and that the negative is the ground. 

Assuming you're on a model N -- probably 8N because of a soeleniod being present -- it's supposed to be 6v positive ground.  That said, lots of people have converted them to 12v neg ground over the years.  You say the tractor cranks slowly, though -- 12v conversions almost never modify the starter and a 6v starter spins pretty fast on 12 v. 

So, if the machine is still 6v, switch the ground back the right way and repolarize the generator.  Also, make sure that the ground (positive) is either a strap -- which is proper -- or at least zero gauge wire.  00 (double-ought) is better yet.  The hot side (negative) should be similarly large, either AWG 0 or 00.  Heat means there's too much current going over the wire -- as this occurs the resistance increases dropping the voltage delivered AND making more heat.  Not a good situation for fire safety or performance.

If the machine is 12 v, you still have a resistance problem in the ground.  A strap ground is still superior, but one can get away with AWG 2 on a 12 v system. 

I know you're selling the tractor, but if she was originally 6v, I'd have the starter re-wound for 6v.  That way you'll keep the original heavy windings which will work on either voltage and last longer.

Hope this helps,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.
 

Julie --

Sounds like a great plan.  Just be careful of the brakes -- 9Ns never did have good brakes.  As far as rollover hazards, I'd say the Ns are safer than a lot of other tractors of the era, e.g. Farmall letter series, John Deere, because they're wide front end and are relatively low to the ground.  Of course, there's no substitute for the original safety feature -- an operator with common sense. 

Just my $ 0.02

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

Jim --

SN is stamped (lightly) on a flat spot on the block just below the head on left side near oil filter.  Your description sounds like it's not an 8N but it could be a 2N. 

The biggest differences with an 8N is they don't have the Furguson System badge, they do have a four speed trans. and have two hydraulic controls (draft and position.)  There are other differences, but it sounds like yours is not an 8.

9 vs. 2 is trickier.  Pre-war 9s have an I-beam style radius rod.  1939 and 1940 used a four spoke steering wheel, but wheels are frequently replaced.  1939 had an aluminum hood and grille (rare.)  Early 9s had smooth hub axle shafts, 2N has riveted hubs, but.... the smooth axle shafts tended to break and were replaced over the years with riveted ones. 

The best thing is to lift the SN, then look up the year for that number.  Then go back to the tractor and try to disprove the SN by looking at clues like the ones mentioned above -- if you can't disprove the SN year then it's probably right.  If you do find something inconsistent then you're left with a dilemma of whether or not it's a different engine in your tractor or a replacement part on an otherwise straight tractor.  In the end one may never know 100 %

Hope this helps,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

Greg --

Ah, a 2N.  (I'd love to find an authentic wartime model, i.e. magneto, steel wheels, etc., but I digress.) 

Sorry if you or your friend know this but just for completeness -- when you do the compression test remove all plugs and make sure the choke and throttle are wide open.  The shop manual says to do the test hot but it's useful to do one cold first, then heat the engine up and do again hot.  Crank so that the gauge quits moving, at least five or six compression strokes.  A good engine should develop about 100 psi although 80 psi hot is not uncommon.  Each cylinder should give similar readings, say within 20 % of highest reading. 

My guess is that across-the-board lack of compression is not your issue.  Poor compression makes for hard starting, plug fouling and low power, but once the engine runs it runs.  You said last time she ran she missed, that's probably ignition with other less probable causes being a sticky valve (which compression test will indicate) or really bad carburetor adjustment. 

good luck,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.