Recent Posts

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 10
31
General Discussion / Re: New to the 9N world and the forum!
« Last post by jmw1461 on December 13, 2014, 09:40:11 AM »
I put a bottle jack with a piece of wood between the engine pan at the rear of the engine and the jack screw. If you get the hood assembly of you will see there is not much to it. If you decide to leave the steering assembly on the transmission the you will have to take the tie rod ends on the assembly off.
32
General Discussion / Re: New to the 9N world and the forum!
« Last post by TSGB826 on December 12, 2014, 12:24:19 PM »
I'll probably remove the gas tank and the hood all at once anyways to spray it with a new coat of paint anyways. My wife wants to paint it in the original Ford Blue so it'll look a bit different. In theory, I should be able to lift the front end under the front support where the motor bolts into the frame, then I'll be kosher. Time will tell, I just don't feel like removing the entire motor just to replace the ring gear.
Nate
33
General Discussion / Re: New to the 9N world and the forum!
« Last post by jmw1461 on December 12, 2014, 02:57:24 AM »
Yes, you can separate between the engine and transmission. I have done this by putting a chain or new belt around the steering wheel column, taking the steering unit bolts loose and raising it up gently. Make sure you shut off the gas valve and unhook the battery for safety. Drive wedge block on the underneath side of front axle to keep the front from moving and remove starter. Take the bolts out of bell housing and gentle start to pry apart. only raise steering assembly just enough to get by. The radius rods will also have to be disconnected. Be careful with the battery. I personally just remove it.
Once you have separated the halves remove the clutch assembly and flywheel and I use a torch to cut off the old ring gear. Make sure the new ring gear is oriented correctly. Heat ring gear and seat while gear is hot.
Now there are some nuances that you will figure out.
Also replace the starter drive and inspect clutch components and replace all seals and parts that are questionable.
You will use a engine hoist and floor jack. Care should be used as not to damage any sheet metal or other parts.
This is a flat raters way. If you do not feel comfortable doing this remove sheet metal with gas tank and split at engine /transmission. 
34
General Discussion / New to the 9N world and the forum!
« Last post by TSGB826 on December 11, 2014, 06:04:42 PM »
Welp, A good place to start looking for information is a forum where its all about these old tractors. My wife and I just bought a 9N (i'll figure out the year here in a few after I lift the serial number) and while she isn't the prettiest girl on the block...She will get the job done!

A couple quick questions...the ring gear on the flywheel has about as many teeth as a resident of Victor, Colorado (inside joke) and while it will turn over, it takes the starter a LOOOOONG time to grab the gear and crank it. I've read quite a bit on how to replace the gear and it seems pretty simple, there HAS to be simple way to do it without removing the ENTIRE motor!


My initial thought was to move the block forward, and separate it at the transmission...Has anyone replaced a ring gear doing it this way or have y'all completely removed the block?

Thanks for adding me in, and glad to find a place where there is a lot of 9N knowledge!
Nate
35
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: paint scheme
« Last post by Darell on December 11, 2014, 11:11:16 AM »
No, only gray in the true Henry Ford tradition, his firsts of anything were only one color.  "You can have any color Model T, as long as it is Black".
36
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / paint scheme
« Last post by kevinwith1n on December 10, 2014, 04:58:16 PM »
hey my 16 year old (and me) bought a 1941 9n at an auction. he just wanted something to work on (since this one don't run).
when we started doing some research on the 9n, one of the first things we noticed is alot of the pictures labeled as 9n's have the red underside.
however all the specs i've been able to find say that the 9n's were only manufactured and painted gray.
so my question, did any of the 1941 9n tractors come from the factory with red underside?
thanks in advance,
kevin
37
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 1944 2N
« Last post by 9N151993 on October 16, 2014, 03:19:40 PM »
So true.
I ended up purchasing a kit online. Much better deal...new alternator and all new ignition except plug wires. Tractor cranks and runs super.
38
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / brokenlift arm
« Last post by leo o goldman on September 24, 2014, 04:32:05 AM »
I have a broken lift arm that is really stuck.  Tried drilling, penetrating oil and some heat.  Anyone else?
39
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: 1944 2N
« Last post by leo o goldman on September 24, 2014, 04:27:15 AM »
Hardest part is convincing car parts what you need it for.  They would want a reference car that it is going into.  I usually get a clank look when I tell them it is for a tractor.
40
9N,2N,8N, Ford Tractors / Re: Engine starts, runs, but misses
« Last post by 9N151993 on September 09, 2014, 08:47:42 AM »
And don't forget the gasoline.
Always use stabilizer...try some gas line antifreeze if you think you may have water in the fuel.
Good luck
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 10