9N no spark passed coil

[9n hound]

Hello Gents, I have a 9n with ignition issues. Has already been converted 10 yrs ago to 12 volt and normally have no problems. Bought new 12 volt square coil and still no go. This is the front mount style.I get 12 volts to the top of coil. I tried to ohm the old coil and it settles at 0.00, and checked for continuity from brass screw where coil goes to first point with them being open and get 0.00 after it settles. Can you tell me some other troubleshooting tips? Also have hydralic lift problems but that will be next. Any help will be much appreciated,

Thanks Warren

[Pete P.]

Warren --

I'm a little fuzzy on where you metered to in the distributor -- you say from the brass concave coil primary screw to the "first point" with points open and you get a short.  Where is "first point?"  With points open you should get an open from the coil primary screw to ground (dist. chassis.)  You should get 0 ohms when points are closed.  If you have an analog meter and spin the dist. slowly you should see nice sharp response on the meter needle as the points open and close. 

You might have a defect that is shorting the coil primary circuit to ground -- could be the brass strap from the screw to the point strap, the condensor, a stray bit of wire, etc.   I'd remove all, clean, dress / replace points and carefully reassemble.  The fault is definitely in the dist. assuming the above is true with dist. on the bench.

Hope this helps,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

[9n hound]

Thanks Mr. Pete, I'm still scratching my head. I rechecked the point gap and it was off, I regapped it at .015, it was around .010 somehow. I checked the new coil it has 2.5 ohms and the old one had 1.5 ohms. Put everything back on and still no spark. The points are only 2 yrs old at the most and I only use it maybe 7 times a year mainly due to the hydralics not working which is the next project. My have to just get another set of points  and see what happens.

Thanks Warren

[Pete P.]

Warren --

If you replace points, go with Blue Streak ventilated -- the cam block is still actual fibre which resists wear far better than the purple plastic stuff the Tisco (and other) points have.  Also, you might consider replacing the hold down screws if they're worn at all -- these screws have to be very tight to hold the gap.  One trick that seems to work ok is to leave a feeler gauge between the points when tightening the lower screw -- the screw turning against the stationary point plate tends to move the plate inward. 

Also, try 0.018", especially if your distributor is worn.  Essentially, you want the widest gap you can get and still have spark.  the extra gap compensates for worn bushings and cam lobes. 

Just my $ 0.02,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

[9n hound]

Thanks Mr. Pete, I tried to tell you last week that I got it going and show you some pics of what I did but it said my files were too big. I bought mine at tractor supply, and also put new plugs in, also have new wires yet to put on. The main problem was the points as I counldn't get any continuity through them with them closed of course. I also change the coil as the ohms were like 1.5 compared to the new coil with 2.5.
 Next project is getting the hydraulic lift to work again.I put a gauge in the bottom test port and have zero pressure with tractor running of course. I took off the side plate and pump seems to be working. It has a new pressure valve. I tried draining fluid and flushing under the pump and got some gunk out. Only thing left I know of is to drop the pump and take a closer look. Any Ideas?

Thanks, Warren

[Pete P.]

Warren --

If the pump is moving and the relief valve is good, and there's no obvious place the oil is going to (like a cracked tube or housing) then it sounds like dropping the pump and (probably) rebuilding it is in order.  Zero pressure is odd though, usually one will have something even if it's only 50 psi. 

Good luck,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.