Electronic Ignition

[Squeak]

I'm installing an electric ignition from Pertronics. I have 6v + ground. The instructions say to ground the coil and run a wire from the module to the ign. switch. Right now the coil goes through ign. resistor and to the ign. switch. What I think they want me to do is take the wire off the coil and connect to module. This in a sense is connecting mod. to ign. switch. Then ground the coil. Is this confusing? I am.

[younggeezer]

I sure wish someone would answer you.  I ordered mine kit yesterday so I'd like to know what to expect!!

[jamesfpop]

I just got mine, but I have 12V Neg ground. Not much help am I. I will install this very soon.
James

Just finished the install today and the tractor runs GOOD.

To answer the above question: the wiring diagram might be correct. Did your kit come with a 'resistor coil'? If it came with a coil, it will have a resistance on the box label. If so it will wire directly through the ignition switch avoiding the resistor. This is how my diagram shows it, yours will be similar if it is "Pertronix." JP

[younggeezer]

I installed mine.  Run the one wire from the module directly to the ignition switch, do not go through the resistor.  A wire from the top of the coil grounds to any good location on the frame. 

[jamesfpop]

I installed the electronic ignition wires to the + and - poles on the resistor coil. I think the ignition wire is acually from the resistor, kind of in a hurry yesterday and did not look very close. I live 35 miles from the little jewel so I don't see it every day. Connected the coil and spark plug wires a few times, then it started. I had also replaced the plugs and wires at the same time. The only part not included in the kit is a rotor bug. I will replace it when I see the tractor again.

The funny thing is, the tractor did not want to start immediately after this change. I took everything apart twice and finally right before being forced to leave for work it started. Then I had to run it around the yard and pull some trees to see how it would pull. It did just fine.

James

[jamesfpop]

Now it starts and runs just fine, first crank.

New problem As soon as the mower hits the grass, it bogs down. The mowing appears somewhat short, but the engine rpm slows and then it starts to backfire. I then have to depress the clutch to prevent it stalling. I back up and try again. It even gave my brother in law trouble driving uphill in road gear.

I will replace the oil and filter, oil pressure gauge, and rotor bug this weekend.

ANY SUGGESTIONS?

James

[Pete P.]

Get rid of the resistor.  Ground the coil primary and run that little black wire from the ignition module direct to your ignition switch.  Make absolutely certain your switch is not introducing any resistance into the primary circuit.   Your coil will run hotter and may burn out in a few years but you'll get a much much hotter spark. 

These Pertronix things seem to work really well and require no attention for a few years, then quit altogether (at least that's my experience so far.)  Personally, I'm still ahead vs. having to tend points and all the related problems every six months or so. 

Just my 0.02

Pete P.

[jamesfpop]

Changed the oil and the wiring so there is less resistance. Changed the rotor bug and sharpened the blades. It ran like a champ, but I did not get a chance to mow with it.

Ran the tractor for a couple more hours this weekend. Bought a disc for deer plots and it seems to run it fairly well. After pulling dirt for an hour, I hooked up the mower to see if I could adjust the carb. for better performance. I checked the fuel line then went to mowing. Right off I killed the tractor. Then after some tinkering I got it to run pretty well by opening the jet. Still runs well while cutting, but I think a carb kit is next.

I then will set out to completely rewire the thing, spool of #12 and #16, a pack of connectors, soldering iron, solder, shrink wrap, and it is off to the races.

[jamesfpop]

I installed electronic ignition in it and it has found a multitude of other problems since. I think it is all fuel system related, because it has to be under a load and then it starts sputtering and stuff.

Next stop is remove the original fuel system and install a elbow off the tank, fuel shutoff, and an inline filter. Then, rebuild the carb.

Any advice on a carb kit: Basic or Comprehensive?

Some outside opinions would be helpful here.
Thanks in advance,
James

Forgot to mention the sediment bowl last week was completely full of rust. cleaned it and an hour later it was full again. I know rusty tank right.

[Pete P.]

Sure sounds like it.  Getting rid of the settling bulb will make the problem worse, in my opinion -- all the sediment would then go into the in line filter plugging it solid, or worse yet into your carb. 

I'd pull the tank, ball mill it and have it coated with epoxy (most radiatior shops can do this) and then re-install the original fuel system.  Settling bulbs rule when it comes to water, and you can see how much dirt you're dealing with before major problems occur.

Just my $ 0.02,

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

[jamesfpop]

Better yet. My father in law took it to a tractor mechanic. Now it is his problem to throw money at. When it comes back to the farm it will be running great, never to have problems again. LOL

[jamesfpop]

When it came back from the shop it did run like a new penny for a little while. Still had issues going up an down terrain. You'll never guess how much air in the tires will help?!? Runs 100% better than it did last year.

Food plots went in just fine. It has been mowing, dragging, and discing fine lately. Fresh gas and TLC makes everything better.