Pull the distributor and do it on a bench. To remove distributor, first remove secondary (spark plug) wires, then remove the coil. The coil is released by moving the retainer bail forward towards the radiatior; the coil should then just lift off and in most cases can be set on the fan belt up out of the way without even removing the primary wire (although that can be easily done if needed.) Once the coil is off, unsnap the cap and remove that as well as the rotor. Note the position of the rotor as this will help in re-installation of the distributor. Next, remove the two mounting bolts that hold the dist. on the engine -- they take a 1/2" wrench. They're near where the cap retainer clips are on the sides of the dist. Once the bolts are out just wiggle the distributor a bit and it will come right off; the coil bail makes a neat handle to fish it out of the front space between engine and fan.
Once the dist. is on the bench you can rotate it without fear of messing up the timing because the drive tang is not symmetrical -- it will only go in one way. Noting the position of the rotor will help this allignment. Clean everything out in the usual fashion. Pay special attention to the convex copper screw where the points and condensor attach. This screw needs cleaned on the top convex surface as that's where the spring contact from the coil touches and completes the primary circuit through the pionts to ground. Also, the points contact this stud via a thin copper foil piece that runs from the stud to the point strap -- if not in perfect condition this strap can cause high resistance and weaken spark. Point gap is 0.015", although on many worn distributors 0.017 - 0.018" is advisable. I recommend ONLY blue streak points, ventilated ones if you can get them. The Blue Streak points still have an actual fibre cam block which wears slower and more evenly than the off-shore ones that have a sort of purple-red plastic material.
Hope this helps,
Pete P.
