Burt --
That wiring doesn't sound right at all. The coil sits atop the distributor and cap on the front mount models (which yours should be.) The only wires should be one from the resistor / switch to the top post of the coil to supply current, and the four spark plug wires plugging into the distributor cap.
The coil is retained by a snap bail -- move it forward (towards radiator) and it will allow the coil to be lifted off. Next, unsnap the two spring clips retaining the cap and remove it and the rotor. Note the position of the rotor (makes reassembly much easier.) Then remove the dist. by removing the two bolts -- they take a 1/2" wrench. The dist. should come off the front of the engine with a little persuasion; use the coil bail as a handle if you want. Once you get inside it's fairly simple but be picky -- make everything 100 % and take no shortcuts. Ns are not known for being forgiving when it comes to spark.
Once you open her up, make sure points are really clean, gapped to 0.015 - 0.018 in. Make sure the concave headed screw that the spring contact on the coil touches is also shiny clean, and the copper strap between that screw and the breaker point plate is good. Make sure everything else is good and clean, then lube the cam lobes sparingly.
Upon reinstallation, rotate dist. so that rotor is where you had it when it was removed -- dist. tang drive will only go in one way but lining up to the approximate location helps. make sure coil contact surfaces, cap and rotor surfaces are good and clean and put all back together.
Next is plug & wire time, but that's fairly straightforward. If you need new wires, you'll have to make them of course -- use only copper core wire, not this suppression stuff all the wanna-be parts stores have. Every radio and television in half a mile will hear your ignition system but it will work and will stay that way. For plugs, I use Autolite 437.
Hope this helps,
Pete P.
